“House of Card’s” Emmy choice account for 2017 is clearly up one.
The alternation becoming a nod for a costumes, afterwards the Television Academy bent “This is Us’” submitted adventure was disqualified due to aeon apparel absolute too abundant awning time. As the sixth absolute vote-getter in the category, “House of Cards” was bumped up in its place. Though the Netflix alternation has accustomed 53 nominations back its admission in 2013, this is the aboriginal time the apparel designers accept been recognized.
“It’s acceptable to apperceive that we were so aing originally, but candidly I’m appreciative of aggregate we do every season, and it’s aloof icing on the block for us to be in such abundant company,” Johanna Argan, one of the nominated apparel designers for “House of Cards” tells Variety. “We do feel bad for those [that were bare of the nom]. It’s an odd way to appear about a nomination.”
Argan, who is nominated alongside apparel artist Kemal Harris, abettor apparel artist Jessica Wenger and apparel administrator Steffany Bernstein-Pratt, talks with Variety about the alley to the nomination.
What do you anticipate it was about this division of “House of Cards” that set the apparel afar for you and assuredly becoming the nomination?
The aboriginal division of “House of Cards” was mostly a talking show. There wasn’t a ton of aggressive attendance or compatible attendance or accurately abundant things like that. It was added about these two characters and the bodies about them, every day people. As the storyline expanded, the beheld expanded, and the accouterment and the assembly design, aggregate expanded.
Every division is array of a transition: Claire starting off in division one actuality in added of the clandestine sector, Frank accepting aspirations to be added than aloof a whip, them acute every season. It’s this chess bout they’re playing, but now they’re advancing to this abode area it’s adjoin anniversary other. Frank is so able at one point, and again his apple starts to crumble, and you do see him abatement apart. Back he’s falling, she’s accepting stronger. Kemal and I, we assignment absolutely adamantine on that to accomplish it angle out aural their arcs.
Also, I anticipate our actualization is array of aback appropriate apropos how all the women accept appear advanced in our show. Abnormally at the alpha of division four with Claire and bringing in Neve Campbell’s character. It was a lot of women out there. Another applicant was a woman. We were on par with women actuality so abundant in ability and angry to get in there. That attempt anniversary season, the centralized battle against what’s activity on with the advancement of association and the world, all of that I feel like is actual timely.
In the absolute world, we generally see changeable politicians’ accouterment choices avaricious added account than their policies, so clothing, in a way, can be acclimated to carefully abstract if you capital to. How accept you played with that abstraction on “House of Cards?”
If we were in a actual fair apple area it was aloof about the work, accouterment wouldn’t matter. But at the end of the day, it does back you’re a woman, and we saw it in Hillary’s attack back the aboriginal affair they did was allocution about her pantsuit and her beard and what-have-you. I can’t allege for Kemal, area her arch is at back she’s account the storylines [to dress Claire], but she and I coact actual carefully because I do the all-embracing show. I additionally coact actual carefully with Kevin [Spacey] and the showrunners, and again she shows me her abstraction for Claire’s applicable photos, and we go from there.
All my women characters, I feel like it’s consistently a attempt for them to be apparent by their backroom or by who they’re aggravating to be. Their actualization is consistently activity to be advised appropriate away. You don’t apprehend that Frank wore a bad tie. But we’re actual artful with the way we dress them, for sure, for actualization purposes. [Real politicians] accept bodies to admonish them on how to attending softer, how to attending truthful. What are you aggravating to say back you accomplish a accessible statement? That’s actual important to what we do.
You already affected on the aggressive uniforms actuality a newer accession to your team’s responsibilities. What abroad do you feel absolutely set the actualization afar this season?
Elysian Fields, the affectionate of Skull & Bones affair area all of the world’s leaders go to affected up arctic in California. We did our adaptation of that. I had to accomplish all of these cloaks for a august ritual. They’re not declared to allocution business, but they do. It’s a club or a abstruse society, and our adaptation was Elysian Fields. We were affecting on the behind-the-scenes apparatus of who’s activity to get elected, why they’re activity to get elected, who’s continuing in the way, why they’re accomplishing this. Some things we accept to make, and others we accept to find, but it’s so research-based because it has to attending authentic. We accept to attending real. Our apple is allegory our absolute White House. There’s aloof so abundant to do all the time that I could never do this by myself. Our actualization is such a huge show. I accept a barn abounding of clothes and two working, full, behemothic trucks every day.
So with Elysian Fields, I fabricated hundreds of cloaks and hand-painted a lot of the gauntlets myself. And I had masks fabricated from this actual specific affectation maker. We based them off the absolute ones, but we had to change capacity because it’s our own adaptation of it. And it may be for bristles account on screen, but the detail of it and what it takes to get it, it takes a team.
So how does it feel for your aggregation to assuredly get accustomed now?
We never booty annihilation for granted. Awards and actuality accustomed is nice, but I do what I do because I adulation it. I’ve backward on the actualization because I feel like it’s my baby. I’ve affectionate of developed with Frank and Claire and Stamper and everyone. Accomplishing what I do, abnormally in a design, it’s a actualization that affectionate of comes forth once, if you’re lucky, maybe alert in a career.
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